As briefly written about in the previous post, pizza dough can be seen as the cornerstone to the pizza. There are so many styles of dough that can be created and there are several key points to creating a successful dough. I present here some of the considerations as well as a few different formulas for pizza dough I like.

Depending on the fermentation (or lack there of) of the dough, it will have a direct affect on the quality of the crust. From the basic ingredients of flour, water, salt and yeast (I like to add a bit of olive oil to my dough), we can have many different styles of crust. Thin and crisp. Thick and chewy, tender, bubbly, etc. The balance of all of the ingredients will determine which of these characteristics are highlighted and the main ingredients which determine this are the water and the yeast.

When water comes in contact with flour, it hydrates the starch and the protein in the flour. The higher the protein level of the flour, the more water the dough can take. Final dough viscosity is determined by the quantity of water in the dough. More water = softer dough, less water = stiffer dough. For pizza, some like a stiff dough, others like a softer one. Stiffer doughs should be stretched out to thinner sheets. The resulting crust will have crisp characteristics and it should be baked very quickly. Softer doughs can be thicker or thinner and their texture will be a bit chewier and there will be a more open crumb.

Yeast is responsible for the fermentation activity of the dough. The type of yeast, the temperature of the dough and the temperature of the workroom all play a role in the activity of the dough. The two most common types of yeast for the home baker are fresh yeast, active dry yeast and instant yeast. All of them have their merits and special considerations.

Fresh yeast: available at most grocery stores in the refrigerated section. This must remain refrigerated and it is only good for about two weeks after the date of production. It should have a creamy color and a pleasant, yeasty aroma. Off colors and off aromas are a sign of old or improperly stored yeast and should not be used. To use, simply add it to the other ingredients of the dough. There is no need to mix it into the water first.

Active dry yeast: this is surely the most widely available form of yeast at the grocery store and it requires special attention. Due to the manufacturing process the small granules of yeast cells need to be hydrated before they can be added in with the other ingredients. The outer portion of the granule is essentially deactivated, or dead yeast. Once this is softened from the warm water, the dormant yeast cells from the center of the granule are activated and are ready to ferment. Note: if the water is too warm it can kill the yeast, if it is too cold, the outer later of the granules will not wash away. The use of this yeast gives a heightened yeasty flavors as well as greater extensibility of the dough (beneficial for pizza). The down side of this yeast is that all of the water should be used. Yeast which was not stored properly or is over two years old may not come out of its dormant state. Once the package is opened, it should remain refrigerated.

Instant yeast: sometimes called rapid rise yeast, instant yeast has the benefit of being shelf stable without refrigeration and it can be added directly to the dough. Because of advancements in the processing of yeast, the granule of yeast dissolves easily when hydrated with water at ambient room temperatures within the dough. Once the package is opened, it should remain refrigerated. One precaution: never add the yeast directly to cold water or it will not dissolve.

The type and quantity of yeast will affect the rate of fermentation. If switching types of yeast, use the following yeast conversion formula:

    * If using instant yeast instead of fresh yeast, use 40%

    * If using active dry yeast instead of fresh yeast use 50%

Once the dough is mixed and the dough has developed (a term used to describe the organization of the gluten... And which is necessary to trap gases produced by the yeast) it needs to undergo the first fermentation. During the first thirty minutes the yeast feed on the simple sugars that are naturally in the flour. In order to sustain fermentation for longer periods of time, enzymes, also naturally present in flour (at varying levels), break down more complex sugars within the flour to make additional simple sugars available for the yeast. This extended fermentation is important because it adds flavor and strength to the dough.

Typically a 1 hour first fermentation is sufficient. Next, the dough can be divided and preshaped into a loose ball shape. It is important to shape loosely because if too much strength is added to the dough, it will be difficult to roll out into a thin sheet. Typically the dough rests for 20 minutes before shaping the pizza but it can rest for up to 18 hours under refrigeration (or in the freezer for up to one week with good results. The longer the dough has to rest, the easier it will be to work with. During resting times which extend beyond 20 minutes, the dough must be kept cold. This will retard, or slow down the yeast activity allowing there to be sufficient activity once the dough is ready to be used.

Once the dough is rolled out, it is ready to be used. For a good pizza, the quality and quantity of the toppings is a make or break point. The quality and flavor or the vegetables, tomato products, meats and cheeses will clearly be evident. Also, how much of and how the toppings are placed on the dough will affect how it cooks and tastes in the mouth. My preference is a bit of sauce, then the cheeses and then the veg and meats. Cooking the pizza fast and hot roasts the veggies to perfection. If the cheese is over the veg... They sweat and release a lot of humidity.

The cooking of the pizza should be fast and hot. My preference is the wood fired oven. For home cooks, a thick pizza stone (the larger the better) will do the trick. At the peak of the burn in a wood fired oven, the oven is well over 1000 degrees Fahrenheit.  Way too hot for pizza. Once the fires turn to embers, they should be spread over the hearth to evenly distribute heat for at least an hour. After this, the embers should be pushed to the back of the oven and the surface of the brick should be mopped to remove the ash. A few fresh logs on the fire will continue to add heat to the oven and maintain the temperature. The optimal temp will vary by oven but 650 – 750F will ensure the pizza doesn’t cook too fast. In a home oven, heat it at 550 for at least an hour before baking with the stone in it.

Pizza Dough with Poolish

Poolish

Process, Poolish

Mix all ingredients together and allow to ferment for 12-15 hours at room temperature (70F)

Final Dough

Process, Final Dough

Place all ingredients in a mixer fitted with the dough hook. Mix on 1st speed for 3-4 minutes, or until good ingredient incorporation. Next, develop the dough to short/improved mix. Desired dough temp is 74-78F.  Bulk ferment for 1 hour. Divide into 400 – 500 gram pieces. Shape into a loose ball and retard for at least 1 hour or up to 12-15 hours.

Note: This is a wetter style pizza dough. White flour, cornmeal, whole wheat flour, rye flour, or a combination of any of these may be substituted for the semolina flour with good results.  “Flour” called for in the ingredients is low protein bread flour (11.5 – 12% protein).

Pizza with Levain

Process, Levain

Mix all ingredients together and allow to ferment for 12-15 hours at room temperature (70F).

Final Dough

Process, Final Dough

Place all ingredients in a mixer fitted with the dough hook. Mix on 1st speed for 3-4 minutes, or until good ingredient incorporation. Next, develop the dough to short/improved mix. Desired dough temp is 74-78F.  Bulk ferment for 1 hour. Divide into 400 – 500 gram pieces. Shape into a loose ball and retard for at least 1 hour or up to 12-15 hours.